Modern Comfort Food

(Is it obvious yet that my actual camera finally gave up the ghost, so

I've been using my phone's camera for the past couple of weeks? Apologies!)

There’s nothing like a relaxing weekend with a close friend- unwinding, telling stories, window shopping and the occasional glass(es) of wine in the afternoon. The only thing that makes this better for me is when the close friend that is visiting happens to be my mother! We attended the Newport boat show (the initial excuse for the trip), walked around down town, drove out through Ocean Point to watch the surf, had a long brunch at Café Zelda and took time to breathe and enjoy hanging out as the dynamic mother-daughter duo we are. The weather was most certainly in our favor, and we did our best to appreciate as much of it as possible, including enjoying a waterside late lunch out on the patio of The Pier.

After tooling around downtown and the boat show on Saturday, I was chomping at the bit to cook dinner, as my mother is one of the biggest supporters of my culinary obsession, and one of the most honest taste-testers I know. I had an idea for a scallop dish that had been rolling around in my head for a week or two, and since Ky isn’t a huge scallop fan, Saturday presented itself as the ideal time to make the dish. I also invited my good friend Jill (who was my supervisor at IYRS during my volunteering) over, as she and my mother get along very well, and I was deep in debt to her for all of the kindness and comestibles she had recently extended my way.

After working over the concept of the dish a few days before, we trudged up to the treehouse with gorgeous scallops and bottles of wine in hand, I put out of a couple of pre-dinner treats, and set to work on the dish. The cooler temperatures and drop in humidity had me shooting for something warm and comforting, without being overly heavy. The scallops were fresh and beautiful, as has been the case with every fish purchase I've made at the oft-mentioned Anthony's Seafood, so I wanted to be sure to highlight as much of their naturally sweet and subtle flavors- anything too heavy, and their delicacy would be completely lost. Leeks and shitake mushrooms seemed like a natural compliment- both have the same understated flavors that would work harmoniously with the scallops. I have been looking for an excuse to work with cranberry beans again, and after volleying some concepts around in my head, I figured they would make a great base for the dish, and bring a little more depth without being overpowering. As our kitchen is small, and I didn’t want to spend the rest of the night washing dishes, I used one cast iron pan to do all of my searing & sautéing, and in the end this allowed for a great layering of flavors with minimal pan usage. I’ve also added a couple of technique notes at the bottom of the recipe from things I had picked up back in my days in real working kitchens, and they are tips that can help make a big difference in the ease and consistency of the dish.

The end result of all this planning was a comforting dish that had very light flavors, but was still very satisfying. The next time (and there certainly will be one) I make the dish, I plan on cutting down on the roux a bit, as the sauce was just a touch more heavy than I was aiming for, but the flavors were right on par with what I was aiming for. I served a simple green salad upgraded by fresh tomatoes and arugula from Jill’s garden as a side, and of course a little Prosecco- it was a Ladies’ Night, afterall! Good food, delicious wine, great friends and non-stop conversation, the makings for a truly great fall night in!

Scallop Casserole with Leeks, Shitake Mushrooms & Cranberry Beans
(this recipe will easily feed 4, and could be stretched to 5-6 servings)

- 1 ½ Lbs. fresh sea scallops
- 6 Slices Pancetta
- 2 Medium leeks, sliced thin & cleaned (see note)
- 6-8oz. Shitake mushrooms, stemmed & sliced
- 2 Garlic cloves, minced
- ¾ Stick good quality salted butter (Kerrygold Irish or some other European style works best)
- ½ Cup(ish) all purpose flour
- 24 oz. Roman beans, canned or fresh (if using fresh, cook off first)
- ½- ¾ Cup dry white wine (I used Sauvignon Blanc)
- Zest & juice of one good size lemon
- 8oz. Half & Half, cream or milk
- ¾ Cup Panko breadcrumbs
- Good handful of flat leaf Italian parsley, chopped
- Extra virgin olive oil
- ½ Tblspn. seafood seasoning (Old Bay is my go to)
-Sea salt & fresh cracked pepper

Remove scallops from packaging & place in one layer on a kitchen or paper towel lined plate, removing any “foot” muscles (tough white muscle the runs along the side of scallop) and discarding. Top with a second layer of towel and press down lightly to remove any excess moisture, which will cause splattering during searing. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium high with a little olive oil. Fry pancetta slices until very crisp, being careful not to burn, and transfer to paper or kitchen towels to drain. Melt ½ stick of butter in a small sauce pan & combine with flour to create a roux, and cook for additional 5-10 minutes to cook out flour taste (roux should be a light golden brown), turn off heat & set aside. Add a little more olive oil to cast iron pan (there should be a thin layer coating the bottom), and bring up to medium-high temp. Remove top layer of towel from scallops & season exposed tops well with salt & pepper. Place scallops seasoning side down into hot pan and sear off, about 2-3 minutes. Season exposed side of scallops, and flip to sear other side, turning scallops in same pattern as they were introduced to heat (see note). Sear for another 2-3 minute and transfer to a warm plate & set aside.

Add a little more olive oil to pan and a little butter, bring to medium heat and add in leeks, stirring well to distribute. Cook over medium heat for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in sliced mushrooms & continue cooking another 5 minutes, or until leeks are well softened and mushrooms take on a deeper color. Add in minced garlic and cook an additional 2 minutes until garlic becomes aromatic. Season to taste with salt & pepper and seafood seasoning. Pour in lemon juice, ½ of the lemon zest and ½ cup of wine and heat until just below a simmer and slightly reduced, about 8-10 minutes. Begin introducing roux into mixture and continuing to stir well to avoid clump formation (see note). Continue to add roux until mixture becomes thick and gravy like- you may not use all of your roux, just use your best judgement. Using small amounts, begin incorporating half & half into the sauce, until correct consistency is reached- similar to that of alfredo sauce. Once consistency is reached, turn off heat. In a small bowl, combine breadcrumbs with remainder of lemon zest, and half of chopped parsley.

To assemble: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In the bottom of a deep casserole dish (tall enough for ¼” lip above scallops & beans), layer cranberry beans in an even layer across entire bottom. Top with ½ of Leek-Mushroom sauce & place seared scallops on top in one layer. Cover scallops with second half of sauce and pancetta slices (either in whole slices or crumbled). Spread seasoned breadcrumbs evenly over top & bake off in oven for 20-25 minutes, until top is golden brown & sauce is bubbly. Serve immediately topped with chopped parsley & lemon slices. The casserole can also be made in individual ramekins or chafing dishes.

Notes

A note on leeks: Leeks are one of my favorite flavors to cook with- the problem being how to clean the little buggers without diluting the flavor! There are many philosophies on how to clean leeks, and mine has evolved from my brief kitchen training a few years back, and doesn’t call for any special equipment. Fill a deep bowl with very cold water. Slice off the last ¼ to ½” inch by the root & discard. Cut leek in half and slice thinly, about the width of a rubber band (there will be dirt in the layers- don’t panic!), and cut up until the leaves begin to turn dark green- these tops can be saved & used later for soup stock. Transfer sliced leeks to cold water and let sit for a minute or two. Lightly break apart slices with your fingers to help loosen any grit from in between the layers. Let the leeks sit, undisturbed, for another minute or two in water. Using a slotted spoon or your hands, gently remove leeks from water and place in a colander or strainer- be sure not disturb the water too much, as the sediment should have settled to the bottom of the bowl. Briefly rinse leeks with a sprayer and very cold water to remove any leftover grit. Shake to dry, and you’re ready to use!

A note on scallop searing: One of the best techniques for searing off scallops quickly & evenly came from my good friend and kitchen instructor, Ralph Smith. Once the pan has come up to temp, I place the scallops in concentric clockwise circles (evenly spaced) around the pan and then leave them untouched until I’m ready to turn and sear the other side. I use the circular pattern when turning them, so that every scallop gets the same time to sear, and you avoid overcooking- the pattern makes it easier to remember where you started in the pan as well. In some circumstances, it is a good idea to move the food around when searing, but with scallops it is imperative to let them sit once they are introduced to the heat- this is crucial for allowing the natural sugars to caramelize and achieving that lovely brown color. Scallops should only be moved once, while flipping sides, in order to sear properly.

A note on roux: While working as the lunch chef at The Chowder House, I learned an easy, foolproof way of introducing roux to liquid to avoid clumping, and have been using it ever since. For making roux, I use a bulbous metal whisk to combine & cook the flour-butter mixture so that the consistency remains smooth. After the roux has been well mixed, I cook it off for a couple of additional minutes so that any of the raw flour flavor is eliminated. When adding into liquid, I use the whisk to scoop the roux into the liquid, stirring with the whisk as soon as the roux is introduced to break up any clumps. Repeat this process with a small amount of roux until the desired consistency is released, and use the whisk yet again when adding in cream or milk to keep the sauce smooth.

Refreshing Snacks for Hot Weather

(once again, my lackluster photo skills don't do justice!)

Well hello there- it’s been too long! Summer 2010 has been an impressively busy season around our household with holidays, anniversaries, birthdays and out of town visitors, I have been bouncing around the East Coast enjoying all the season has to offer. Somehow, in my absence it also appears as though I've hit the 20 Followers mark, how exciting! What started as a way for me to organize my recipes and the likes has apparently struck a chord with others, so big thanks to all of you who are interested in my culinary adventures, your support is awesome!

A few weeks ago, Kyle’s ship was rather suddenly mobilized to assist in the oil clean-up efforts in the Gulf of Mexico, so we spent his last week in town trying to get in as much quality time before they set sail through August 30th. It is a long time to be apart, but I am very proud of what he is a part of with the effort, and wit will make his homecoming all the more sweet.

In the meantime, I have settled into my solo routine quite well- and this weekend I had the pleasure of hosting one of our favorite couples for a night before they headed to their anniversary vacation out on Block Island. They were married out there last August, and it was hands down one of the best weddings I have ever been to- they sure know how to throw a stylish party! A few photos to pay homage to two of my favorite people- Happy Anniversary Will & Carolyn!!!

When Carolyn first asked about coming to stay for a night, I was beyond thrilled, as we don’t get to see each other all that often since we moved away from Annapolis. As those in the region know, the Northeast has been uncharacteristically hot this summer, which seems to impede my desire to whip up a lot in our tiny attic kitchen. Carolyn & Will were arriving mid-afternoon, so I whipped up these Spicy Seared Tuna Canapés with Avocado-Crème as a light snack and served a side of chilled edamame pods tossed with a little French sea salt. The canapés were a spin-off of an appetizer my friend Alex Day (who runs Chez-Vous here in Newport) brought to a cocktail party a few weeks ago, with a couple of modifications I made for what I had on hand.

The chilled tuna & avocado make a classic light combination, and went well with ice cold beers & mojitos. It was so great to catch up with good friends, although I paid the price a bit the next day at work- long gone are my days of being able to go out for drinks on a school night, but it was worth the paying the toll in the end!

Spicy Seared Tuna Canapés with Avocado-Crème (makes 12 hors d’oeuvres)
-6-8oz. Sushi-grade tuna steak
-Spice rub (see below)
-1ish Tblspn sesame oil
-1 Ripe Haas avocado
-1 Clove garlic, minced fine
-1 Tspn fresh lemon juice
-3+/- Tblspns whipped cream cheese
-1 Medium English cucumber
-Soy sauce
-Sri Racha or other Asian hot sauce (optional)
-Sea salt & fresh cracked pepper
-Chives, cilantro or other fresh herbs for garnishing

For the spice rub:
-1 Tbspn toasted black sesame seeds
-1 ½ Tbspn seafood seasoning (think Old Bay)
-½ to ¾ Tbspn curry powder (I prefer to use spicy)
- ½ Tbspn cayenne pepper powder
-Couple turns of the pepper mill & a good pinch of sea salt

Pat tuna dry & cut into 1 ½” strips (if purchased in one large steak, a lot of fish markets will cut it down for you if you like). Combine spice rub ingredients in a shallow dish & toss to mix well. Dredge tuna through the spice mixture, making sure to well coat all sides and set aside to allow flesh to absorb spices.

Mash avocado well (a few chunks add nice texture) with garlic, lemon juice and salt & pepper to taste. Lightly fold in whipped cream cheese (overworking will cause deflation, treat the mixture like a soufflé) until combined and keep chilled in the refrigerator.

Over medium-high heat, heat sesame oil in a non-stick skillet until the oil begins to sheen a bit. Sear tuna on each side (approx 30 seconds or per side) just long enough to sear & color the outside and maintain a rare to medium-rare interior. Remove tuna promptly from pan & set on a cutting board to cool. Once tuna is cooled, slice into bite sized slices against the grain.

While tuna is cooling, slice cucumber on a bias to create ovals (12) and lay on a plate lined with paper towels and lightly salt slices. After a few minutes blot off any moisture expelled from the slices and discard paper towels. Arrange cucumber on a chilled plate and top each slice with a small amount of avocado mixture, and top avocado with a slice of tuna. Add a dash of soy sauce directly to each piece of fish, followed by a small dallop of Sri Racha (if using). Garnish each finished bite with fresh herbs & serve immediately. If making ahead of time, cucumber/avocado/tuna slice component can be made in advance & kept cool in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic for a few hours. Just before serving, garnish with soy sauce, Sri Racha and herbs to maintain flavors.

Sangria Season!

Oh Sangria, my dear, dear friend- is there no situation that you can’t make better with your presence? I want to thank you for hanging out this past weekend and making not only my Friday night post-work decompression time all the more relaxing, but also staying over to share your festive spirit with our dinner soiree guests, it was much appreciated!

Sangria is such a versatile cocktail, and it lends itself well to a lot of different flavor combinations, and meal pairings. It is the perfect way to get some extra mileage out of less expensive wine, and a great way to showcase fresh seasonal fruits. I personally find it a lot of fun to fish bits of Triple Sec laced fruit out of a glass while sitting around and relaxing with friends. Last summer I had a group of friends who would get together for weekly summers and without fail, my friend Alyssa and I would whip up a big batch of white or red Sangria for the gang. The options are really endless for making Sangria, and as a result each person’s approach is a bit different, but the results are almost always fun!

The vast majority of times, I find most restaurant versions to be overly sweet, with too much emphasis on fruit juice, and not enough on the wine and actual fresh fruit (the exception being Salvation Café, a fabulous Newport spot that makes is perfectly!). I prefer my Sangria a little less on the sweet side, with lots of fresh citrus for a refreshing finish. Too much added sugar can leave you with the “mouth coat” feel, which is not appealing when the mercury starts to rise. When making Sangria for a party or get together, I usually start it a few hours in advance, leaving ample time for the fruit to infuse the mixture and absorb some of the Triple Sec- the extra time gives the finished Sangria a bit more cohesion, and gives the ingredients a better chance to come together. A few years ago I started adding fresh herbs to cut a little of the sweetness of the Triple Sec, and the end result was a well balanced, porch sipping Sangria that is perfect for the upcoming holiday weekend.

Red Sangria with Fresh Fruit & Herbs

- 1 .75ml (standard) bottle of Pinot Noir
- ¾ Cup Grand Mariner or other Triple Sec
- 1 Lime, halved & sliced thinly
- 1 Star or Ruby Red grapefruit, halved & sliced thinly
- 2 White peaches, sliced
- 3 Plums, sliced
- ½ Cup fresh Basil leaves, torn
- ¼ Cup fresh Mint leaves, torn
- 6-8oz. Seltzer water- I prefer using Pomegranate or any other flavored seltzer

Combine fruit, herbs & Triple Sec in a large, wide bottomed pitcher. Using a wooden spoon, begin lightly bruising fruit & herbs against the bottom and sides of the pitcher, releasing some of the juice into the mixture. Set aside for at least 30 minutes. Give mixture a good stir and add in wine. Cover & place in the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 minutes, or even overnight if time allows. Just before serving, remove from refrigerator, add in seltzer and stir well. Serve over ice.

Note: Any fresh seasonal fruits are a perfect addition to Sangria- other recommendations would be blueberries, strawberries, black raspberries, star fruit, clementines, apples, etc.

Cocktail Party Season!

One of my favorite things about warmer weather is entertaining outside. Whether it’s throwing a couple of steaks or chicken breasts on the grill on a weeknight, or an all out backyard soiree, eating al fresco seems to make things a bit more special. In the past couple of months, we’ve hosted a couple of small cocktail parties at our house during the week, and it’s been a blast. One of my favorite parts about cocktail parties (whether hosted indoors or out) is putting together a simple spread of bite sized food with a little something for everyone. I always put out a couple of cheeses with crackers, a cured or dried meat, nuts, crudités, a bowl of marinated olives and a couple of spreads or dips. Most of the components are pre-made, so throwing together a great looking appetizer table is easy, and really only requires a little arranging and tweaking. Time permitting, I like to put out at least two “from scratch” elements to add a little personal flavor to the scene, and it’s even more enjoyable if you encourage guests to bring a snack to share.

In warmer weather, my go to choices are most often seafood based, as it is satisfying without weighing you down, and pairs well with summer white wines, lighter beers and clear spirits. For a while now I have been making a smoked salmon spread that has made appearances at cocktail and porch parties from Annapolis to Maine. It is very simple to pull together, and is great when served with cucumber slices, water crackers or pumpernickel toast. I’ve also used this as a stuffing for hollowed out peproncini- the kick of the pepper plays well off of the coolness of the spread. I would recommend making the spread in advance, so the flavors have time to come together while chilling overnight.

If you end up with any leftover (a rarity!) it is also great with toasted bagels in the morning. I have rarely actually given the recipe out for the spread, but I think it’s time to bite the bullet and share, so long as I get credit at your next porch party! ;-)


Smoked Salmon Party Spread

-16oz Package regular cream cheese- room temp
-16oz Package whipped cream cheese
-2 to 3 Tblspns sour cream/mayo/plain yogurt (optional)
-16oz Wild caught smoked salmon (I usually use the pre sliced Scottish style in the cryovac’d package for easy preparation)
-8oz. Capers, chopped fine, brining liquid reserved
-1/2 to 1/4 Red onion, minced fine
-Good bunch of fresh dill, minced (adjust to suit personal taste)
-Juice from ¼ lemon
-Sea salt & fresh cracked pepper
-Couple shakes of hot sauce (optional)

In a good size bowl, combine first three ingredients and mix until well blended. Remove salmon from packaging, mince finely and add into cream cheese mixture. Add in capers, onion, dill and lemon juice, and mix until well combined. If spread is a bit thick, add in a small amount of brining liquid from capers to loosen and mix well. Season with salt, pepper and hot sauce to taste. Cover well with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Remove from refrigerator an hour or so before serving to let soften a bit.